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Born in 1927 Vivianna Torun
Bulow-Hube studied at the
National College of Craft and
Design in Stockholm, before
opening her studio in
1951.During a trip to Paris in
1956, she was interested by
the early artifacts on display
at the Musee de L'Homme.
She then designed jewellery
with Egyptian amulets.
Torun decided to remain and work in France. She married an
African-American painter Walter Coleman, and though him
became friends with the expatriate Black community.
She designed rutilated quartz silver necklaces and moss agate
pendants and earrings for Billy Holiday. Billy wore these jewellery
pieces during her singing work at the Mars Club and other European
jazz clubs in the late fifties.
From 1954-68 Torun's jewellery was displayed at the Galerie du
Siecle in St Germain-des-Pres. As she repeated some of the
designs later for Georg Jensen, some of Torun's jewellery bears
Danish hallmarks, and others French and Swedish hallmarks.
Workshop in Blot, South of France
Torun opened a workshop in Blot in the South of France, where she
worked with 5 assistants during the 10 years she spent there. Her
work focused on sculptural body art, and silver mobiles for the shoulders
and neck. A 1959 design snaked around the thoat with rutilated quartz
carefully balanced on each end. She set a large piece of overlay glass
by Edward Hald of Orrefors into a silver bracelet. In 1960 she was the
winner of the Lunning prize.
From 1968-78 she moved her studio to Wolfburg in Germany where she
undertook work as a freelance designer for Georg Jensen. Torun is the
designer for some the most famous Georg Jensen jewellery pieces,
including 'The Vivianna / Open Watch', "Mobius"' 'Beans', "Hidden Heart "
and 'Forget me knot'. She is the second most renowned Georg Jensen
designer, after Jensen himself.
After being invited to teach young people
jewellery techniques in Indonesia, Torun opened another studio in Djakarta
in 1978. In Java she is know as Vivianna and spends time on the beaches
looking for shells and objects for her jewellery.
Torun's jewelry was inspired by natural shapes such as leaves, flowers,swirls
and the flow of water. It is described as minimalist , sober and simple. Torun
has gained acclaim for her ability to shape seemingly solid materials into flexible
forms in jewellery. She did not use valuable gemstones, preferring instead
granite, pebblesrock crystal, moonstone, mother or pearl, horn, and quartz.
In 2002, after being diagnosed with leukemia, she left Indonesia to live with
her daughter Marcia in Denmark until her death in 2004 at the age of 76.